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Registered: 09-2011
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Vintage Racing; Level 2


The Vintage Racing level 2 blueprint will take you to the next level of performance. It
is a continuation from level 1, with some important changes and additions as noted. (Please refer to Open-Track; Level 1 modifications 1 thru 10 as a starting point).

The vast majority of vintage SCCA, A&B Production Sports Cars and FIA, AS Sedan and TA Trans-Am Cars are prepared to this level of performance.

Generally speaking, there is a fair amount of new technology creeping into vintage cars, including aftermarket heads, intake manifolds, carburetion, roller cams, etc. not to mention stroker cranks. This has become commonplace due to the competitive nature of racers and the lack of strict rule enforcement. The current attitude seems to be; that if the competition is getting away stretching the rules with new technology parts – then you need to do the same in order to stay competitive. In my opinion, I would like to see the individual clubs reverse this trend with strict rule enforcement. Again, this varies between local area clubs, therefore you must determine what is acceptable in your playground.

Taking it to the next level of performance:

(1) Brakes upgrade: There is considerable improvement using the best brakes that were available back in the day and a legal option for all BP, AS & TA classes; specifically the 1969 Lincoln big front disc brake calipers made by Kelsey Hayes. As for the rear brakes; BP class ran 10” X 2-1/2 or 11” X 2-1/2 rear drums from full-size Fords, while AS & TA ran the small Kelsey Hayes calipers on the rear disc brakes, that are normally found on the front of 1965-67 Mustangs.

(a) Calipers: The 1969 Lincoln* front disc Calipers are a little bit of a challenge to install, but well worth the trouble. (*1965-69 Lincoln, 1965-67 Ford/Merc/T-bird). These calipers are still available at your local auto parts supplier.
(b) Spindles: First you want to upgrade with 1970 Mustang* drum brake spindles, as these are both stronger plus take bigger bearings and tie-rod ends than the early Mustang spindles. (*1970 Mustang/Cougar/Fairlane, 1971-73 Maverick).
(c) Caliper brackets are then needed to bolt these calipers to your drum-brake spindles. The original Ford DOZX brackets are scarce, this website is one aftermarket supplier www.vintagefordracing.com
(d) Rotors; this setup uses 11.75” X 1.25” vented rotors, in order to clear 15” wheels.
(e) Hats; this setup uses Wilwood hats with 1.77 backspacing, 5 on 4-1/2 or multi-fit bolt spacing.
(f) Hubs: use the stock 1970 Mustang* drum brake hubs.

Master cylinder & Proportioning valve: same as Level 1.

(2) Oiling upgrade: Road race T-Pans with good baffles are a must, but still might fall short! It is important to pay close attention to oil fluctuation during hard cornering. (see level 1). It may be necessary to overfill the oil level, but this can cause oil aeration problems at high RPMs.

Something to consider: As you increase your cornering speeds, G-forces, RPMs and horsepower simultaneously, your engine becomes less and less tolerant of air are being sucked during ever harder cornering and ever increasing engine loads . As these conditions increase, it becomes almost impossible to keep constant oil at the pickup, even with the best baffle system, as oil is kept pasted to the side of the crankcase. Sooner or later you will lose an engine due to a gulp of air being swallowed by the oil pickup, then pressurized by the oil pump, thereafter pushed down the oil galley until this pressurized air bubble is released at the first bearing surface encountered. Modern race engines have solved this problem with dry sump oil in systems, but these are not allowed in “vintage”. There is an economical solution; an Air-Oil Separator, which supplies constant (air bubble free) oil pressure to your engine. This website is one aftermarket supplier www.vintagefordracing.com .

(3) Tires: Same as Level 1
(4) Sway Bar: Same as Level 1
(5) Suspension: Same as Level 1, plus;

Bumpsteer Kit: this will make your car feel much more stable under braking and less twitchy and more controllable during cornering and bumps. For installation and adjustment set-up, it is probably best to start a separate new thread for discussion. These bump steer kits are available from several vendors, This website is one aftermarket supplier www.vintagefordracing.com .
Optional; If needed/desired, install a Shelby quick-steer kit = Pitman arm & Idler arm, together with a 1965-66 power steering gearbox. One vendor www.mustangsplus.com

(6) Strut-Rods: The stock front strut-rod bushings and mounting are especially troublesome. It is very important to have a solid front pivot point to maintain accurate front end geometry. I do not recommend the polyurethane bushings as they binded and stress the strut-rods too much over the range of travel. There are several aftermarket suppliers attempting to solve this problem with different designs, most of which bolt on adapters, which result in changing the factory pivot point. In my opinion, the best solution is mounting a hiem joint at the correct factory pivot point, this is low cost but requires fabrication and welding.

(7) Alignment: After you replace front suspension parts, (and assuming you have already got your car lowered to desired ride height), you should realign the front end for very high performance track car settings. To confirm the settings are correct and for fine tuning, you need to take an infrared heat gun to the track and check tire temps.

As a starting point; Caster; 5 degrees positive, Camber; 1 degree negative, Toe-in; 1/8 inch.

After a practice session of hot laps, with tires completely warmed up; immediately take 3 temperature readings on the face of all 4 tires, outside/center/inside. By analyzing these temperatures you can thereby determine if your tires are over or under inflated, and if the camber settings are correct for your car. Obviously you are striving for even temperatures across the face of your tire for maximum traction. If the center of the tire is hotter, reduce the air pressure. If the outside edge is hotter and the inside is cooler, this indicates you need to tilt the top of the tire inward with more negative camber adjustment. This can be done at the track by decreasing the thickness of shims at the upper A-arm mounting bolts. (removing or adding shims equally from each mounting bolt will change only camber adjustment without affecting caster adjustment, after changes, re-check toe-in setting). Keep adjusting tire pressure and camber until you achieve even temperatures across the face of your tires and you will see lap times improve.

(8) Engine: I expect there will be many different opinions on the subject of engines. All opinions are welcome! I will attempt to design a blueprint for the “do it yourselfer” to build an economical, yet very strong running small block Ford. Please see the engine forum.

(9) Transmission; Same as Level 1

(10) Rear End: Same as Level 1

PLEASE FEEL FREE TO JOIN IN AND ASK QUESTIONS.
9/18/2011, 10:03 pm Link to this post Email Gearhead97750   PM Gearhead97750 Blog
 


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